{"id":64212,"date":"2023-01-27T03:34:58","date_gmt":"2023-01-27T02:34:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/vosgesinfo.fr\/gerardmerinfo\/2023\/01\/gastronomie-fantastique-petrus-a-sauce-longo\/"},"modified":"2023-01-27T03:34:58","modified_gmt":"2023-01-27T02:34:58","slug":"gastronomie-fantastique-petrus-a-sauce-longo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/vosgesinfo.fr\/gerardmerinfo\/2023\/01\/gastronomie-fantastique-petrus-a-sauce-longo\/","title":{"rendered":"Gastronomie fantastique – \u00ab\u00a0Le P\u00e9trus\u00a0\u00bb \u00e0 la sauce Longo"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"Photo<\/a>

Photo : St\u00e9phane Pierre<\/p><\/div>\n

\n

\n

Originaire de Belfort, Thierry Longo est arriv\u00e9 \u00e0 G\u00e9rardmer en 2003. Depuis, le chef n\u2019a jamais quitt\u00e9 les cuisines du Grand H<\/b><\/span><\/span><\/span>\u00f4<\/b><\/span><\/span>tel & Spa de G<\/b><\/span><\/span><\/span>\u00e9<\/b><\/span><\/span><\/span>rardmer<\/b><\/span><\/span>, dont le Petrus, sa table gastronomique. Juste avant le coup de feu de midi, il a pos\u00e9 un instant ses ustensiles pour revenir sur ce moment particulier que constitue le Festival du film fantastique et sur la pl\u00e9iade de jur\u00e9s qu\u2019il soigne aux petits oignons pendant quelques jours. <\/b><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Thierry Longo le confie d\u2019embl\u00e9e : nous ne sommes plus \u00e0 la fastueuse p\u00e9riode de Johnny Halliday\u2026 Invit\u00e9 du festival Fantastic\u2019art en 1999, la star avait b\u00e9n\u00e9fici\u00e9 d\u2019une suite cr\u00e9\u00e9e de toute pi\u00e8ce pour lui et le<\/span><\/span><\/span> Grand H<\/span><\/span><\/span>\u00f4<\/span><\/span>tel <\/span><\/span><\/span>avait mis les petits plats dans les grands pour l\u2019accueillir. <\/span><\/span><\/span>\u00ab\u00a0<\/i>C\u2019est plus resserr\u00e9 aujourd\u2019hui. On fait moins de repas dans l\u2019ensemble. Avant, \u00e7a commen\u00e7ait d\u00e8s le mercredi. Aujourd\u2019hui, c\u2019est concentr\u00e9 du vendredi au dimanche. Ce qui a chang\u00e9 \u00e9galement, c\u2019est que d\u00e9sormais beaucoup de nos h\u00f4tes sont v\u00e9gans ou v\u00e9g\u00e9tariens. On est davantage sur du quinoa que sur du <\/em><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>b<\/span><\/span><\/span>\u0153<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>uf de Kob<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/em>\u00e9 ou de la truffe\u2026<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb<\/i><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span> Le chef-cuisinier glisse cependant que, malgr\u00e9 les principes de fa\u00e7ade, certains ne rechignent pas \u00e0 go\u00fbter le homard maison. <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\"Photo<\/a>

Photo : St\u00e9phane Pierre<\/p><\/div>\n

Son meilleur client durant le festival, c\u2019est le directeur de l\u2019\u00e9v\u00e9nement lui-m\u00eame : Bruno Barde. <\/span><\/span><\/span>\u00ab\u00a0Je n\u2019ai jamais vu quelqu\u2019un manger autant de truffes en si peu de temps. Bon, en ce moment, il est v\u00e9g\u00e9tarien\u2026 Sans doute qu\u2019il fait des exc\u00e8s en dehors et qu\u2019il doit se m\u00e9nager des p\u00e9riodes de semi-je\u00fbne\u2026\u00a0<\/em><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>\u00bb <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/em>On cuisine Thierry Longo pour qu\u2019il r\u00e9v\u00e8le quelques anecdotes croustillantes sur ses \u00ab\u00a0meilleurs clients\u00a0\u00bb parmi les jur\u00e9s. Mais on fait chou blanc. <\/span><\/span><\/span>\u00ab<\/i>\u00a0Il n\u2019y a pas trop de d\u00e9bordement. Alors oui, \u00e7a mange des produits chers, comme du caviar par exemple, mais c\u2019est plus dans les vins que \u00e7a se l\u00e2che. Les Roman\u00e9e-Conti ou les P\u00e9trus, je ne vais pas dire que \u00e7a part comme des petits pains, mais \u00e7a part bien quand m\u00eame. C\u2019est un p\u00e9riode o\u00f9 on peut \u00e9cluser du stock. On parle l\u00e0 de bouteilles \u00e0 4000 ou 5000 euros\u2026\u00a0<\/em>\u00bb <\/i><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>\u00c0 l\u2019\u00e9vocation d\u2019une ancienne invit\u00e9e, <\/span><\/span><\/span>la pr<\/span><\/span><\/span>\u00e9<\/span><\/span><\/span>sident<\/span><\/span>e du jury de la 29e \u00e9dition, le chef a des \u00e9toiles dans les yeux, et plus que les trois qui distinguent certains restaurants fran\u00e7ais. <\/span><\/span><\/span>\u00ab\u00a0<\/i>Bah mince, comment elle s\u2019appelait d\u00e9j\u00e0 ? La femme de Fran\u00e7ois Hollande\u2026 Ah oui, Julie Gayet ! Alors elle, c\u2019est une femme g\u00e9niale ! Elle venait l\u00e0 pour \u00eatre tranquille, \u00e0 une table r\u00e9serv\u00e9e pour nos meilleurs clients et dont la fen\u00eatre donne sur la cuisine. C\u2019est une bonne vivante. Elle ne toise pas les gens. Elle est agr\u00e9able avec tout le monde.\u00a0J\u2019en garde un excellent souvenir<\/em>.\u00a0\u00bb <\/i><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Pour pr\u00e9parer ses plats, le chef du Grand H\u00f4tel essaie au maximum de travailler avec des producteurs locaux. <\/span><\/span><\/span>\u00ab\u00a0<\/i>Mais il ne faut pas oublier que nous sommes dans les Vosges. Si on ne veut travailler qu\u2019en local, \u00e7a restreint, surtout au niveau des l\u00e9gumes. Et le probl\u00e8me des petits producteurs, c\u2019est qu\u2019ils ont souvent une d\u00e9marche proche de celles de l\u2019artiste. Dans leur fa\u00e7on de penser, ils veulent faire un produit magnifique. Sauf qu\u2019ils ne sont pas commer\u00e7ants et qu\u2019ils travaillent sur des petites quantit\u00e9s\u2026 Or, au Grand H\u00f4tel, on a besoin de plus grosses quantit\u00e9s. Derni\u00e8rement, j\u2019ai \u00e9t\u00e9 confront\u00e9 \u00e0 ce probl\u00e8me avec un gars qui s<\/em><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>\u2019<\/span><\/span><\/span>est lanc\u00e9 dans les \u00e9<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>crevisses <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>\u00e0 <\/span><\/span><\/span>pattes rouges du c<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>\u00f4t<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/em>\u00e9 de Bourbonne-les-bains, mais qui ne pouvait me fournir que cinq kilos. Ou \u00e0 un autre qui cultivait des endivettes \u00e0 Thi\u00e9fosse. Elles \u00e9taient magnifiques. Sauf que je n\u2019en ai eues qu\u2019une fois\u2026 Celui qui se d\u00e9brouille bien, c\u2019est Richard Thierry, qui vend du safran. Lui, il a compris qu\u2019il fallait \u00eatre un peu commer\u00e7ant.\u00a0<\/em>\u00bb<\/i><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span> Parti \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e2ge de 15 ans travailler sur la C\u00f4te d\u2019Azur, Thierry Longo est un grand amateur de l\u00e9gumes, notamment les fleurs de courgettes, <\/span><\/span><\/span>\u00ab\u00a0quand elles sont ouvertes, pas comme ici o\u00f9 \u00e7a fait longtemps qu\u2019elles n\u2019ont pas vu le soleil\u00a0\u00bb<\/i><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span>. Cet amateur de \u00ab\u00a0produits simples\u00a0\u00bb<\/em> confesse une passion pour les anguilles et les artichauts. Et pour le vieux Porto. Pas celui qu\u2019on sert en ap\u00e9ritif, celui qui accompagne les plats. Il recommande aussi la d\u00e9gustation du <\/span><\/span><\/span>Ch\u00e2teau La Lagune – Cos d\u2019<\/span><\/span>Estournel<\/span><\/span><\/span>. \u00ab Celui-l\u00e0, c\u2019est le top ! Et ce n\u2019est pas le plus cher\u2026<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb <\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\u00c0 la t\u00eate d\u2019une vingtaine de personnes quand l\u2019\u00e9quipe est au complet, le chef aime son m\u00e9tier. Un m\u00e9tier qui a le vent en poupe avec la pl\u00e9thore d\u2019\u00e9missions t\u00e9l\u00e9vis\u00e9es d\u00e9di\u00e9es \u00e0 l\u2019art culinaire. <\/span><\/span><\/span>\u00ab\u00a0<\/i>C\u2019est bien parce que \u00e7a fait un peu de publicit\u00e9 pour l\u2019h\u00f4tellerie, mais ces \u00e9missions sont biais\u00e9es. Le premier jour, tu n\u2019arrives pas \u00e0 \u00e9plucher un oignon et, au bout de trois jours, tu fais des plats de macaron ! Il faudrait quand m\u00eame montrer la r\u00e9alit\u00e9\u2026 Les gamins arrivent dans les lyc\u00e9es h\u00f4teliers et veulent tout de suite dresser des assiettes avec des produits de luxe. Non, avant il faut apprendre les bases !<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb<\/i><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span> Thierry Longo conclut l\u2019entretien avec lucidit\u00e9. \u00ab\u00a0Vous savez, nous les cuisiniers, on ne fait que transformer des produits sur lesquels des gens ont d\u00e9j\u00e0 travaill\u00e9 en amont. On ne sauve pas des vies : on ne fait qu\u2019\u00e0 manger.<\/em>\u00a0\u00bb On le laisse alors retourner <\/span><\/span><\/span>\u00e0 <\/span><\/span>ses fourneaux. Le photocall du festival est termin\u00e9 depuis quelques minutes et les membres du jury vont bient\u00f4t d\u00e9barquer. On ne saura pas qui des v\u00e9gans d\u00e9clar\u00e9s succomberont \u00e0 la tentation du homard maison\u2026<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

Anatole BETANCOURT<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Originaire de Belfort, Thierry Longo est arriv\u00e9 \u00e0 G\u00e9rardmer en 2003. 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